Puppy Obstacle Course!

This has been shared a bunch on Facebook, hoping you enjoy watching it as much as I did. Can't wait for the A Team to be mobile and build them something similar! 

https://www.facebook.com/kybroholmer/videos/vb.1175294099162885/2014478535341691/?type=2&theater

Dogs Should Be "Unleashed" to Sniff to Their Noses' Content 👃

"Dogs' supersensitive noses are legendary, so much so that their approach to life could be summed up as 'sniff first, ask questions later.'”  "With 300 million receptors to our mere 5 million, a dog’s nose is estimated to be between 100,000 and 100 million times more sensitive than a human’s."

Entire article at Psychology Today https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/animal-emotions/201902/dogs-should-be-unleashed-sniff-their-noses-content

Two weeks old today!

Long weekend but wanted to share there are *NEW* photos in the puppy album: 

https://karenlake.smugmug.com/Moonlight-Vizslas/2019-Tanner-x-Cordie-Litter/Tanner-x-Cordie-Week-1-2/i-hVszkgc

Pups are gaining and growing (and fine) and Cordie is a fabulous mom. Breeding always brings challenges but having a great team of friends and fellow breeder/mentors really helps. 

Puppy Stage: Transitive Period Week 2-3

Puppy Development: Transitive Period Week 2-3

• This is when brain development quickly ramps up to bring the pup out of the neonate stage. Mentally, the change is as drastic as a caterpillar’s metamorphosis into a butterfly, or a tadpole’s transformation into a frog. It begins with the pup opening their eyes at approximately 14+ days of age, and is shortly followed by ears opening five to ten days later.
• These experiences a marked increase in brain activity during this period, showing a stark contrast with the activity of the neonate. The puppy can now crawl forward and backward, and can finally attempt to take their first steps. They will also begin moving beyond the nesting area to eliminate without the assistance of his mother, and his interest in solid foods will increase, even though weaning won’t occur until seven to eight weeks of age. 
• The pup will engage in play fighting and posturing throughout the transition period. He will also begin to practice using social signals, such as growling, pawing, and tail wagging. Much to the dismay of his owner, the puppy will also exhibit signs of distress for reasons other than being cold or hungry. At this time, being separated from his littermates, being introduced to a new environment, or accidentally wandering too far from the nest will cause him to cry. Additionally, his ability to learn from training won’t reach full capacity until around four to five weeks of age.

Thoughts on crating?

It's a YES from me! The benefits of crate training . . .

When a dog is properly crate trained the crate feels like a den for them. It is a safe and cozy place for your dog and as a bonus it:

• Makes potty training easier. Puppies naturally don’t want to soil their den so placing them in a crate at night can help speed up potty training.
• Keeps your dog safe and stops them from chewing things in the house. And keeps your house safe. I’ve known puppies that will chew holes in walls when they are teething!
• Most anxious dogs benefit from crating. Anxious dogs tend to feel safer in a crate and relax more as it feels like their private den. However, some anxious dogs don’t like being confined in crates so you will need to figure out how your dog reacts to it.
• Crates can help stop dogs that patrol at night to settle down and sleep instead. A well-rested dog and a well-rested owner makes for a much happier household!
• If your dog needs to stay overnight at the vet, or travel on a plane, or be confined due to injury it will be less stressed as it is used to being in a crate.
• Crates are easily transportable and can be used to keep your dog safe when travelling in the car, staying overnight somewhere new or camping.
• The crate is your dog’s only private space! Like a teenager’s bedroom, your dog will appreciate having its own special place to relax and sleep.

Source: https://pawsome-pooch.com/crating-your-dog-is-it-cruel-or-kind/?fbclid=IwAR1sWv5T1lb7bK2DfwrYnJSHsalxiP4--E52LZfklDQYT3MLQGGsGrRhe7o#.XOf7Zfu1KQI.facebook

Pupdate!

The "A" Team aka Hearts Afire Litter is ten (10) days old today! Some milestones to share:

• Everyone has more than doubled their birth weight 🐷
• They have had two nail trims each with baby nail clippers 💅
• Multiple ENS sessions (see prior post) 🧠
• Learning to scoot around the whelping box to find mom 🍼

Our puppies started ENS - Early Neurological Stimulation

"ENS" is a series of "Early Stimulation Exercises" developed by the U.S. Military in their canine program. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized six exercises which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference, the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

• Tactical stimulation (between toes)
• Head held erect
• Head pointed down
• Supine position
• Thermal stimulation
• Tactile stimulation

Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds. (Figure 1)

Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds. (Figure 2)

Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds. (Figure 3)

Supine position - hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds. (Figure 4)

Thermal stimulation—use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds. (Figure 5)

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results. These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected, the result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

Benefits of Stimulation

Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises. The benefits noted were:

Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)

Stronger heart beats

Stronger adrenal glands

More tolerance to stress

Greater resistance to disease

In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.

Secondary effects were also noted regarding test performance. In simple problem solving tests using detours in a maze, the non-stimulated pups became extremely aroused, whined a great deal, and made many errors. Their stimulated littermates were less disturbed or upset by test conditions and when comparisons were made, the stimulated littermates were more calm in the test environment, made fewer errors and gave only an occasional distress sound when stressed.

Figure 1 Tactical stimulation



Figure 2 Head held erect



Figure 3 Head pointed down



Figure 4 Figure Supine position



Figure 5 Thermal stimulation


Link to entire article: https://breedingbetterdogs.com/article/early-neurological-stimulation

Pet Owners Aren’t Adequately Socializing Their Puppies, Study Finds

Ultimate Puppy


BEST INVESTMENT 💡🐶

Of all the things that can be done for the good health of a dog, early socialization and preventative exercises will have the largest impact.

Here is step-by-step approach to socialization:

https://www.ultimatepuppy.com/ultimate-puppy/socialization/


More reading: Pet Owners Aren’t Adequately Socializing Their Puppies, Study Finds

https://news.uoguelph.ca/2018/03/pet-owners-arent-adequately-socializing-puppies-study-finds/?fbclid=IwAR3Hpw11R-Rn3qjCVWaciBAg6GBbB73SQ4BF9fKBgpvrf94GRnhxCLBoPeg

The Hearts Afire babies!

L to R: Axel (Blue), Alfred (Black), Aya (Lime - was Aqua), Addie (Pink/White), Ainsley (Yellow/Purple)

More photos!

Alfred

L to R: Axel, Aya, Ainsley, Alfred, Addie

Axel

Addie

Vet visit -- tail dock ✓ and dew claw removal ✓

On Wednesday, 5/15 the pups made a road trip to Chino Hills Animal Hospital. This time it was for tail docking and dew claw removal. 

Cordie came with us for the trip as it is best to let her nurse before and after the procedure. She stayed crated in the car but was evidently missing her pups as she did not want to eat the food I left for her while I went inside to discuss the tail length with Dr. Williams.

The babies had no issues with the procedure and all look good and are growing and gaining weight. 

Car rides are no big deal! 

I'm a professional dog trainer & I don't walk my dogs by Stacy Greer

I’ve wanted to say this out loud for so long, so I’ll say it again … I don’t walk my dogs and I’m a professional dog trainer. Oh sure I have walked my dogs –– gone on hikes, in public places, at events, at [training] classes … but regular, daily exercise such as walks down my street –– nope. My dogs don’t get those types of walks. 

This blog post may compliment my blog post from quite a while back titled “Stop walking your dog.” If you’ve not read that you should read it when you have a moment, it’s lengthy but full of lots of great information and resources. 

So, back to the topic of this post—My dogs and their lack of getting daily walks. Yeah. I know I must be a lazy dog owner right? … or maybe just a terrible dog owner—gasp! My dogs must be sad and fat, right? Actually, my dogs are quite the opposite of either of those. In the past 15 years I’ve had 5 personal dogs –– a Great Dane, a Labrador Retriever, a Jack Russell Terrier, an Australian Shepherd and a Beagle.  None of them receive(d) regular daily walks. (I currently have the Aussie and the Beagle as the others have passed.)

Each of my dogs has (had) a fulfilled life because they are (were) mentally engaged far more than the average dog. They have (had) a lovely balance of, I’d say about 90% mental exercise and 10% physical exercise. Well, my Great Dane had only about 1% physical exercise, his choice completely of course! That guy adorned a couch far better than any throw blanket ever could! Alas, I digress . . .

Let's get something straight first — exercising your dog is not wrong and it is definitely beneficial to your dog. Hey, every living creature needs to get physically active in some way, including humans, right?! So, I'm not advocating for people to never exercise their dogs. I'm simply stating that exercise isn't the "fix" that so many dog owners have been led to believe it is. This includes behavior problems as well as weight problems. Yup. That's a whole other topic in itself (weight problems in healthy dogs). So, I'll save that for a different blog post.

The issue with most dogs today is that they are not mentally stimulated properly and/or enough. Yet, is has been drilled into dog owners’ heads that physical exercise will fix all the things!  In fact, I find this to be such a myth it’s becoming a problem in the sense that people are trying to exercise their dogs to fix behavior issues and missing the boat completely. Of course, this isn’t by a fault of the owner. I get it. It’s been so ingrained in people’s minds that “an exercised dog is a tired dog and a tired dog is a good dog” that dog owners are attempting to achieve this, mostly with minimal success.

What I see most of today in the dogs I work with are stressed dogs, dogs riddled with anxiety, dogs with lack of boundaries and training, and dogs not set up to have their brains enriched in the way that they should. Please don't read this as me stating that dogs aren't being cared for properly. I'm simply stating what I see a lot of. Most, if not all of it, is by no fault of the dog's owner. People don't know what they don't know –– this is why I write this blog ... and now do free webinars on my Facebook page!

I see people who want to put forth all the time and energy to exercise their dogs. So much so that they almost have a resistance to setting up enrichment and would rather get out and walk or run their dogs. For some I know that it's the dog owner who sees it as a way for them to get out and exercise, and that's totally fine. It really is. Again, there is nothing wrong with exercising your dog or yourself! Obviously exercise is in fact important. 

But what I often see are humans who are walking their dogs because they think if they don't they are a bad dog owner, or the dog won't be fulfilled, or the dog's behavior issues will be worse or, or, or ... The guilt of not walking their dog forces them to do it. I see a lot of dog owners who would quite honestly rather not walk their dog. So if that's you, then this is directed at you. You don't have to do it. 

If you find solace in it or feel like it's something you really have to do, by all means do it! Also, I'm not stating you shouldn't walk your dog. I'm only stating that I don't personally walk mine and if you wish you could just not walk yours, I say –– then don't!

Guess what? You don't have to walk your dog. You can stop walking your dog if it’s stressing you out and/or if it’s stressing your dog out. Stop if it’s not helping the issues you thought it would help. Stop if you dread it. Just stop if you just don’t feel like doing it that day, or every day. Just don’t. And don't feel guilty about it. It's going to be alright! You can make up for it in so many other ways. I promise!

WHAT YOU CAN DO INSTEAD OF DAILY WALKS

1. Train your dog in your home or in a group class outside of your home. Maintain the training. Do it regularly, not just one class here or there. A trained dog is a good dog, even better than a tired dog ... because a trained dog is a tired dog!

2. Take your dog camping or hiking as you see fit (if it suits you or your schedule). I know that hiking is exercise but it's not a daily walk in your 'hood. This is actually a great form of enrichment for dogs that would be suited for this.

3. Play with your dog. Tug? Ball? Fetch? Play with your dog is great, even better if you incorporate some impulse control exercises (drop, go get it, sit, etc.) in with the play.

4. Provide mental enrichment & stimulation (see my blog post on this) This is your golden goose right here, and there are soooo many ways you can enrich your dog. My blog post explains many different ways to do this.

5. Work on relaxation exercises. Teach your dog to chill. (Great read on this here.) Many dogs that are amped up or energetic need more downtime not more exercise. I actually go into great detail in another blog post I wrote on this. You can read it here.

6. Let your dog sleep. Most dogs don't get enough sleep, just like humans! Did you know that dogs should sleep 16-18 hours a day?! Interesting read on sleep in dogs here.

So, see. You're not a bad owner if you don't walk your dog regularly. There are tons of ways to meet your dog's needs. But, again, if you do enjoy walking daily or weekly with your dog by all means do that. Just note that adding in some of the above things to your dog's exercise routine will have increasingly great outcomes for your dog's mental and behavioral health!

Source: https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2019/05/im-professional-dog-trainer-i-dont-walk.html?fbclid=IwAR0bCj_nhrfIkJ7cP0QSqWiqYLKF4X5jCmLMP4XcvLcL9dH0QYxsk-ySC2c Stacy Greer, Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

Puppy Stage : Birth / Neonatal to 2 Weeks

Puppy Development: Neonatal (Day 1 to 2 weeks)

• Newborn puppies cannot regulate their body temperature and must be kept warm. If allowed to chill they can develop infections, pneumonia and digestive issues. The temp in the room is set to 76-80F degrees. Puppies were born and spend the first three weeks of their life in a temperature controlled nursery (i.e. upstairs spare bedroom). 
• Their eyes and ears are not open, and they depend upon smell and body temperature to find their mothers to nurse. 
• They sleep 90% of the time and when awake crawl in a circle, moving their heads from side to side to find their mothers. 
• It is paramount at this stage that the mother is not stressed so she can focus on the needs of her puppies. Cordie is a fabulous and doting mom. Eventually she will know it's okay to take a break from the pups to come visit the rest of us (and I encourage that) or take a quick spin outside to burn off some energy/go potty. Right now she is focused on the pups and I have to beg her to go outside to potty. 
• Newborn puppies can not relieve themselves on their own. Their mothers have to lick their bottoms to stimulate them to go potty (#1 and #2).

Hello babies!

The babies had their tail dock and dew claws removed by Dr. Beckie Williams. Here's a photo of them in the car ride (3 hours round trip!). Cordie made the trek as well, and she nursed them before and after the procedure. 

Boy - "Alfred" Black/White Collar 

Boy - "Axel" Dark Blue Collar

Girl - "Ainsley" Yellow Collar 

Girl - "Addie" Pink Collar

Girl - "Aya" Aqua Collar

Introducing the Hearts Afire litter . . .

The babies are here! On May 13th we welcomed the Tanner/Cordie babies -- 2 boys and 3 girls. Under the expert care and guidance of Dr. Beckie Williams DVM, we did a c-section to deliver the babies. Cordie's temperature dropped to 98F for 24 hours into Sunday, yet she was not showing any real signs of labor. Her progesterone had dropped indicating the puppies needed to arrive sooner, rather than later; and a c-section ended up being the right decision at the right time.

Myself and whelper-helper/sanity saver extraordinaire, Denyse, spent a marathon day at the Chino Hills Animal Hospital while they triaged a variety of ER cases before performing Cordie's surgery (finally) around 12pm. She came out of anesthesia and we wasted no time trying to get the babies to nurse. SUCCESS! Cordie took to them right away and immediately started loving and cleaning them. Couple hours later we arrived home to welcome them to the puppy room where she's perfecting her mothering instinct. She is a fabulous mom!!! (see Facebook post for more info: https://bit.ly/2VEMpDO) which she absolutely loves, and is producing milk for the babies. She is also eating organic roasted chicken, eggs and cottage cheese for calcium. 

Can't wait to watch these babies grow! Introducing the babies who all have "A" names, i.e. Hearts Afire 

Boy - "Alfred" Black/White Collar (coming soon)

Boy - "Axel" Blue Collar (coming soon)

Girl - "Ainsley" Yellow Collar (coming soon)

Girl - "Addie" Pink Collar (coming soon)

Girl - "Aya" Aqua Collar (coming soon)

They're here!

Quickly wanted to share that Cordie delivered five gorgeous 💙💙💗💗💗 puppies via c-section, two males and three females. Thank You to Dr. Beckie Williams and the staff at Chino Hills Animal Hospital. 

More updates to follow! 

We're ready!

Happy Mother's Day! 😘 Everything is ready for mom-to-be Cordie:
☑️ x-ray done
☑️ whelping room setup
☑️ whelper helpers on standby

X-ray Day! Take a peek at the upcoming Hearts Afire babies!

X-rays are an invaluable resource when whelping a litter, a couple reasons "why" I do radiographs on pregnant dogs.

X-rays are generally done after Day 50+ of gestation, otherwise the skeleton hasn't ossified (calcified) enough to count the babies. 

You can usually count puppies readily on radiographs, again +/- one puppy. (Count skulls, not spines! Most people count BOTH). Even then, someone can be hiding behind another puppy or along mom's spine. This helps me plan for the whelp and know what to expect. 

The other advantage is that the skulls can be compared in size to the width of the dam's pelvis (not usually an issue with Vizslas).

Drum roll...🥁 Cordie had her X-ray today with Dr. Beckie Williams. How many babies do you see? Don't forget to count the skulls and the spines!

The Biggest Mistake Of All "PUPPY SOCIALIZATION"

Dogs need to be socialized. That means that dogs need to SEE the world, and handle it with social grace. We need to teach them the skills and habits necessary for participating within our society. Unfortunately socialization got misunderstood as interacting and playing. While puppies do need to play with other puppies, this is a teenie, tiny piece in their education, but somehow became the only piece. 

Here is a socialization list that I have been compiling for the last three puppies that I raised. This is the type of thing that I teach in my puppy class.

1) Ridden in a wheelbarrow. 

2) Many, many bridges of different surfaces, widths, heights, gaps inbetween planks etc. She can now take a slippery plank over my pond at a gallop, and stay on!

3) Climbing driftwood at the beach for footing, balance, and learning how to use her body.

4) Climbing rocks at botanical beach. This rock is thin sheets, so you need to focus on your feet and balance.

5) Hardware store. 

6) Pet Smart where she shopped - but be careful of overly-friendly strangers who may not heed your instructions. 

7) The Gorge Waterway past heavy traffic, an odd pedestrian bridge, people, bikes, dogs, joggers etc

8) Canadian Tire, with a slippery, shiny entrance that she didn't even notice

9) Many types of floor surfaces

10) Only one dog-park trip with most pass-bys done in my arms, and several on the ground with very safe, kind dogs.

11) One walk with a friend and her dog.

12) Children, and sat outside playgrounds.

13) Hung out with chickens, ducks, and goats. When the goats were really scary, she was on my lap being protected.

14) Been tossed into a giant box stuffed full with Teddy Bears, then got covered with Teddies and had to crawl her way out.

15) Had towels thrown over top of her head. We have now graduated to entire sheets.

16) Been held for cuddling and kisses every night.

17) Had her toe-nails worked on weekly, with a dremel.

18) Been cuddled and kissed while she chews on her bones.

19) We walk at a new beach, forest or Mountain every single day. We are yet to repeat a walk.

20) Got stuffed into my jacket so I was 'wearing her', and we went for a bike ride with the big dogs running beside us.

21) Is crated every single day for varying lengths of times.

22) Has travelled in two vehicles, in different types of crates or seating arrangements. 

23) Has been to Dintner Nurseries, and made friends with all the staff inside.

24) Because she is so friendly, she has had to learn the art of walking past people without always saying hello. We walk past at least four out of five people without greeting, otherwise her friendliness with be annoying when she is big and strong. 

25) Maybe one of the most important things: She can pee and poop on grass, gravel, asphalt, or cement, on a leash, or free. This makes traveling very simple. 

26) Every day she is presented with small problems that she must solve... how to get her ball that rolled under the couch, how to get the marrow out of her bone, how to stay on a bridge without falling off, how to climb over a downed tree that is higher than she thinks she can climb. I help her but NEVER do it for her. And I only help enough so that she has the confidence to do the rest. If she puts in no effort, I will not help her.

27) She is learning to come running back fast on her name, no matter the distraction. If she is running with my dogs, saying 'hello' to the chickens, seeing a person that she want to run to - 'Come' means chase me. 

28) The Boardwalk in Sooke. It is a walk on a raised bridge - and is a fabulous experience for puppies.

29) She is learning that scratching up at, and holding onto my adult dog's heads while you passionately kiss them is not allowed.

30) Play Dates with trusted dog-friends.

31) Walk on all types of stairs.

32) Been in a boat.

33) Go swimming with a slow steady introduction to water.

34) gone into the petting zoo to see all the animals, and more importantly, all the children.

35) Walked on the weird decks at Fisherman's Wharf and explored this fun place. Be careful your puppy does not get eaten by the seals - and no, I am not joking. Don't allow them on the edge, peering into the water, just incase!

36) Been to two friend’s houses for dinner, and met their dogs when they were calm so that they would not scare her.

37) Watched an adult herding sheep. Her eyes almost popped out of her head.

38) Been in a kayak, and knows how to jump on and off.

39) Been in a hammock.

40) Sat on my lap in a swing.

41) Gone down a slide, in my lap.

42) Numerous games of soccer, including me tackling the ball from her.

43) Stayed in hotels, and another house, during vacation.

44) This polite puppy has learned to demand what she wants from me. This will be removed when she is less polite!

45) Travelled in the child section of a shopping cart, all around Home Depot

46) Ride in an elevator.

47) Go through automatic doors. 

48) Be around someone that smells of cigarette smoke.

49) Walk past a person in a wheelchair.

50) Ridden around on my lap on the tractor.

51) Accidentally seen a bear, and gave a very brave bark!

52) Hung out at the Vets and gotten cookies.

Socialization means teaching life skills. I exposed them to every possible skill that she might need to be a functional adult. With all of the exposure and success comes a level of confidence and bravery; they will get to the point where they believe they are invincible. Even when they get into trouble, they know I am right there behind her to help her with her difficulties.

When they feel overwhelmed or scared, we do the experience in my arms, rather than on the floor. By not asking them to brave it, they watch from up high, and then starts wriggling like a mad things wanting to get down and do it themselves. Rather than asking them to try it, by taking that option away and making them feel safe they have to then demand that they be allowed to try it. Because it is their choice they are then brave as soon as they are put down on the ground.

My last puppy never did have one 'bad' experience. Unfortunately, it will happen, and even when it does, they will know that I am there to protect and help them. As they go on their adventures in the world, both good and bad, we are a team, and I have their back.

Monique Anstee

Victoria, BC

Thoughts on Puppy Raising . . .

The hardest part of raising a puppy is not to stifle them. Yet we must be there to protect them every step of the way. Finding that balance, between freedom and protection, is a difficult one to find. We want to tend to their every need, and cuddle away every whimper, and when we do, we stunt their emotional growth. We keep the fearful ones fearful, and the bold ones simply find us irritating.

Our puppies must learn to problem solve, and work out their own difficulties. Our job is to find the balance of when to help them, when to give them a kiss and a nurturing shove forward to work it out on their own, to know when to laugh at them for the dumb error that they just committed, when to force them to succeed and then reward them as though it was their own brilliant idea, and when to simply protect them and keep them safe.

When raising a puppy, I use what they offer to build their confidence. My past two weeks have been spent with two wonderful baby boys. Both are needing help dealing with big adult dogs at the park. Both pretend to act over confident and 'cool' when they really would rather climb inside my jacket and be carried! Growing up is scary, and my understanding and help, and hand-holding, has given them the courage to act like stellar lads.

My first little man had a fabulous temperament, and fabulous raising thus far, so he only needed teasing reminders such as "Grab your Ball" when passing a dog. By keeping his mind on the soother in his mouth, his manners were spectacular, and he had the confidence to move on past temptation.

My second little puppy could not have been more different. He had no social skills, and only confidence through his teeth, so pretended he was the biggest and toughest dog in the world. He needed to be carried past dogs and see them from the safety of arms. Then he needed to be on the ground, with hands guiding him, reminding him that is was me and him against the world. Now we are at the stage of going past the dog, and throwing a cookie in the direction that I want him to go (straight past). I am giving him a reason to leave the encounter. I'm not forcing him. It is his choice to leave (so he keeps all his power). I've just presented a darned good reason why he should leave. This little man has given me his heart and soul. He tries hard to please - but he has no idea how to behave. It is my job to show him how. Because of all that he has missed, he is never going to be the role model at the dog park. But he can learn manners, and how to be a well adjusted, confident adult, by being schooled on what is wanted, and by watching my well behaved adult dogs demo for him.

We are repeatedly told that dog training is science. I disagree. I think it is more like art. Each dog is a blank canvas, and it is up to us to create our perfect dog. We are given a topic, and then the creation is left in our own hands.

There certainly is a scientific component to it; If you do this - you will get that. But first you must envision your canvas so that you know what you want to create, and then you use your science to help you get it.

This is the reason that if you present one problem to ten dog-trainers, you will get ten answers. All might be right, but each trainer will create a very different canvas, depending upon what they saw.

Monique Anstee
Victoria, BC
www.naughtydogge.com

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

Adapted from the WDJ article (source below):

There’s an old joke about if there’s one thing that two dog trainers can agree on, it’s that the third one is doing it wrong. But, I’ve found something that very nearly ALL dog trainers agree on, and that I will defend anywhere, anytime, and it’s this: Retractable leashes have no place in dog training.

It almost reaches the level of a joke: If you go to a dog park or almost any gathering of dog people and their dogs, the worst-behaved dogs will be the ones on retractable leashes. It’s sort of a chicken or the egg thing: What came first, the poorly behaved dog or the leash that teaches him nothing?

They aren't good for adult dogs, and never a puppy.

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

1. The length of retractable leashes (name brand: Flexi), some of which can extend up to 26 feet, allows dogs to get far enough away from their humans that a situation can quickly turn dangerous. A dog on a retractable leash is often able to run into the middle of the street, for example, or make uninvited contact with other dogs or people.
2. In the above scenario, or one in which your pet is being approached by an aggressive dog, it is nearly impossible to get control of the situation if the need arises. It's much easier to regain control of – or protect -- a dog at the end of a six-foot standard flat leash than it is if he's 20 or so feet away at the end of what amounts to a thin string.
3. The thin cord of a retractable leash can break – especially when a powerful dog is on the other end of it. If a strong, good-sized dog takes off at full speed, the cord can snap. Not only can that put the dog and whatever he may be chasing in danger, but also the cord can snap back and injure the human at the other end.
4. If a dog walker gets tangled up in the cord of a retractable leash, or grabs it in an attempt to reel in their dog, it can result in burns, cuts, and even amputation. In addition, many people have been pulled right off their feet by a dog that reaches the end of the leash and keeps going. This can result in bruises, "road rash," broken bones, and worse.
5. Dogs have also received terrible injuries as a result of the sudden jerk on their neck that occurs when they run out the leash, including neck wounds, lacerated tracheas, and injuries to the spine.
6. Retractable leashes allow dogs more freedom to pull at the end of them, which can look like aggression to another dog who may decide to "fight back."
7. The handles of retractable leashes are bulky and can be easily pulled out of human hands, resulting in a runaway dog.
8. Along those same lines, many dogs – especially fearful ones – are terrorized by the sound of a dropped retractable leash handle and may take off running, which is dangerous enough. To make matters worse, the object of the poor dog's fear is then "chasing" her, and if the leash is retracting as she runs, the handle is gaining ground on her – she can't escape it. Even if this scenario ultimately ends without physical harm to the dog (or anyone else), it can create lingering fear in the dog not only of leashes, but also of being walked.
9. Retractable leashes, like most retractable devices, have a tendency to malfunction over time, either refusing to extend, refusing to retract, or unspooling at will.
10. Retractable leashes are an especially bad idea for dogs that haven't been trained to walk politely on a regular leash. By their very nature, retractables train dogs to pull while on leash, because they learn that pulling extends the lead.

Full Article: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2014/06/11/retractable-dog-leash.aspx?x_cid=20141014_ranart_petretracableleash_facebookdoc

More reading:  Reel It In - Why I Don't Like Retractable Leashes - https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/blog/Retractable-leashes-in-dog-training-21740-1.html?ET=wholedogjournal:e286358:821510a:&st=email&s=p_Blog110917

Sit Does Not Mean Sit: Giving Puppies a Voice with Mand Behaviors by Jane Messineo Lindquist

Our 2015 Baci x Lyra Litter "The Easy Riders" 

Firstly, what IS "manding"?

Mand training for nonverbal humans is a way of teaching them how to use gestures to ask for things, and that’s the simplest explanation—a mand behavior is a nonverbal way to ask for things and/or signal a need (Penn. Dept. of Ed., 2012).

Manding is the concept that it is possible to get something the puppy wants by performing a behavior. 

It is not a rule that the puppy must offer an acceptable behavior in order to access desired social contact or other pleasurable things, like food. 

This is a forward communication from the puppy to you, not a top down rule imposed by you on the puppy. That’s why we call it “Give Your Puppy A Voice” instead of “Teach Your Puppy Manners.” They are two completely different things.

Manding is about empowering the puppy and instilling the realization that they are heard. The behavioral benefits of manding spring from that well, not from a “good manners” skill set. Although the end result is a puppy that jumps and paws less, that is a byproduct of manding, not an end in and of itself.

Jane's entire article here: https://spring2019.iaabcjournal.org/manding-puppies/?fbclid=IwAR1LVxpSsUcUMsZHprKPPsef-SlX29liQNp_8L0aWLna8dvntk81KDnE0Vk

What is Puppy Culture?

Learn the basics in less than four minutes with this video:

https://www.facebook.com/puppyculture/videos/347043355481212/

Day 53

Day 53 and feeling nifty at 45.8 lbs!

Introducing Puppy to Adult Dog

I am fortunate to have several well socialized and wonderful adult dogs to help socialize puppies. At left is "Finn" a 10 week old puppy who visited us for a weekend last summer 2018. He had a blast with my girls (ages 9 months to 13 years). They helped teach him bite inhibition and to be respectful of their space.

If you have an adult dog who does not have experience around puppies, below is a helpful link for introductions, "Introducing a Puppy and an Adult Dog: Take it Slow" 

https://eileenanddogs.com/blog/2016/03/17/introducing-dog-puppy/?fbclid=IwAR135Z9oOF9-BBZg5Hq9XcLwUNumYYmporcaHh37wYlH-nHX6baGUf302tk

Cordie lounging around

Beautiful mom to be Cordie lounging around on a lovely Saturday morning, she now weighs 45 lbs. 

Do you really want a "normal" dog?

The Myth of "Normal" Dogs

Dogster's Dog Training Guide with Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP

Recently, a colleague and friend posted a picture on FB accompanied by a caption saying something to the effect of “does anyone have ‘normal’ dogs?” indicating that her dogs had a variety of issues which she was dedicated to working with – separation anxiety, noise sensitivity, fear aggression, etc. “All I ever wanted was a normal dog!”

I hear this a lot in my practice and am forced to ask, “Really? You really think you want a normal dog?!”

What exactly is a ‘normal’ dog?   Here are some characteristics of normal dogs:

• normal dogs bite
• normal dogs have no standards as to appropriate elimination sites with the exception of “where I sleep is out of bounds”
• normal dogs do not come when called if something more interesting is going on
• normal dogs default to responding to new stimuli in their environment fearfully. Fear is a survival adaptation and keeps a dog safe.
• normal dogs chew, dissect, and destroy things
• normal dogs resource guard
• normal dogs bark and growl
• normal dogs dig holes
• normal dogs hump legs
• normal dogs vocalize when left alone
• normal dogs chase squirrels, deer, and cats
• normal dogs kill small animals
• normal dogs pull on the leash
• normal dogs often like to run around as fast as they can, even if they knock over small children or grandma in the process
• normal dogs lift their legs and pee on trees, even when we bring those trees into our houses and put lights and ornaments all over them
• normal dogs like to sniff EVERYTHING – crotches (human and canine), fire hydrants, trees, bushes, gopher holes
• normal dogs eat poop
• normal dogs tear up the garbage, counter surf, and eat expensive panties or heels
• normal dogs roll in poop and dead things
• normal dogs do not like every dog they meet
• normal dogs do not want to be hugged, kissed, touched, or stared at by every person they meet in every situation
• normal dogs don’t like having their nails trimmed, mats removed from their coat, or grooming
• normal dogs don’t naturally love being crated
• normal dogs don’t naturally love wearing sweaters, being carried in purses or strollers, or wearing booties

Looking at all these things that normal dogs do, how many of you want one? All of these things are NORMAL DOG BEHAVIORS. If humans did not intervene, these are the things that dogs would do naturally. I’d argue that very, very few humans would even know what to do with a truly “normal” dog if they came across one. Normal dogs do not make good pets.

What we want in a pet dog is abnormal behavior. We want a creature which has evolved for millennia as a hunter to act like prey doesn’t matter. We want dogs to learn to go potty outside the house, even when we bring doggy bathrooms (trees) into our homes as holiday decorations. We want dogs to like every dog and person they meet. We want dogs to be silent animals. We want dogs to walk politely on a loose leash, even though our walking pace is comparatively very slow. (Have you ever been caught behind someone who moves slowly when you’re in a hurry, either walking or driving? Frustrating!) We want dogs to never bite, no matter what, even when they are harassed, abused, and neglected.

What we want from dogs are behaviors which are ethologically incompatible with their evolution as a species. We like dogs, but not their “dogginess.” Normal dogs end up in shelters for just this reason. Abnormal dogs get to stay in their homes.

Part of the problem is also in what is defined as “normal dog owner” behavior. “Normal” dog owners:

• don’t take their dog to class
• don’t go out of their way to socialize the dog extensively and appropriately during puppyhood
• place their dog’s physical and mental stimulation needs somewhere around #894 on their list of priorities
• don’t manage their dogs to prevent rehearsal of bad behavior
• focus on what their dog is doing “wrong” and ignoring the dog when he does the “right” things
• don’t train their dogs and then blame the dog for misbehaving
• expect dogs know the difference between “right” and “wrong” naturally
• look for a quick fix to behavior problems
• choose to confine the dog to the back yard, turn him into a shelter, or have him euthanized before consulting with a behavior professional to address the problem

Normal dog owners get normal dog behaviors. Abnormal dog owners are proactive about preventing behavior problems and address any new problems as soon as they are noticed. If they don’t know what to do about a problem, they research to find a good trainer who uses dog-friendly training methods. They exercise and train their dogs, even if they are busy. They make spending time with the dog and helping him thrive a priority.

While no dog is perfect, realizing that virtually everything we expect of dogs is unnatural for them highlights the need for training. Part of what makes dogs so wonderful is the fact that they are generally more than happy to exchange behaviors which are rooted in hundreds of thousands of years of instinct for an owner that will spend a few minutes a day training them to offer alternative, incompatible, and socially desirable behaviors.

Dogs don’t come “perfect,” whether they are brought into the home as puppies or as adult dogs they need training. Well-behaved dogs rarely happen by chance, they are usually well-trained dogs. “Bad” behavior in dogs is not bad behavior to dogs, it is simply normal behavior. I think that society does dogs a disservice with the assumption that “good behaviors” are the norm and “bad behaviors” are aberrant. It is the dogs that pay for this misunderstanding, often with their lives. It’s like something out of the Twilight Zone.

Carefully review the list of normal dog behaviors above. If these are not the behaviors you want, you need to train your dog to offer abnormal behaviors. In doing so, you will leave the ranks of “normal dog owners” and join us crazy folks in the “abnormal dog owner” realm.

It’s not so bad – we have lots of treats, toys, and fun here with our “abnormal dogs!”