Friday, September 13, 2019

4 Month Weights

The Hearts Afire Puppies are 4 months old! We're tracking their weight at this stage to get an approximate adult weight. If you take the 4 month weight and double it you have a good estimate of adult size. Example: Cordie was 18 lbs. at four months, and she is exactly 36 lbs. as an adult. 

  • Gabriel (was Black Boy) 23.6 lbs. 
  • Emme (was Yellow Girl) 21.7 lbs.
  • Axel (was Blue Boy) 29 lbs. 
  • Addie (was Pink Girl) 20 lbs.
  • Aya (was Green Girl) 21.4 lbs. 

Tuesday, August 6, 2019

The Misunderstanding of Time

The Misunderstanding of Time

When I am asked what is the biggest problem I see in dog training today, it is the same problem I saw fourteen years ago, and thirty years ago, it is the misunderstanding of time.

It takes time to learn how to be a teacher to another species.

It takes time to learn how to learn from another species.

It takes time to build understanding.

It takes time to learn how to observe and how to apply what you observe.

It takes time to build a relationship with trust.

It takes time to get to know one another.

It takes time to teach.

It takes an enormous amount of time to build skill on both ends of the leash.

It takes time to learn.

It takes time to learn about humility.

It takes time to learn how to work together.

It takes time to learn about the things in training you don’t even know that you don’t know yet.

It takes time to learn about your own short comings.

It takes time to forgive your own short comings and learn how to move on with your dog.

It takes a life time to practice compassion.

It takes time, all of it.

You cannot rush a relationship.

You cannot rush the teaching or learning process, on either end of the leash.

You cannot rush maturity or the lack there of.

You cannot rush your skills, or your dog’s understanding of your skills.

My advice to new dog owners, seasoned dog owners, and want to be dog owners – learn how to settle in, learn that nothing will happen overnight. Learn that if you try to take short cuts and try to make it all happen to fit your schedule, or your desires, or your needs, it will come back to bite you in the ass, figuratively or literally.


Written by Nancy Tanner - April 11, 2016

Saturday, August 3, 2019

And then there were NONE!


And then there were NONE! Baby "Aya/Green Girl" (Moonlight Muse On Fire) went home with Sebastian and Nancy (and their V's Cruise and Camille!) and kept her name. "Aya" is a do-it-all puppy with smarts, sass, good looks and confidence! I am so thrilled she landed in the perfect home where she'll shine. Looking forward to watching her compete in performance events (agility, tracking, rally, etc.) and Sebastian agreed <wink> to let me show her and let her play birddog, YAY! Can’t wait for the next Moonlight Meet-up! See you soon! πŸ˜˜

Friday, August 2, 2019

A Beginner's Guide to Companion Events

Excellent PDF from the AKC - link: https://vcaweb.org/download/AKCactivities.pdf

Monday, July 29, 2019

Increasing expectations



Increasing expectations

"In my time, we didn't have so many issues with our dogs", a sentence that my father has quoted to me on several occasions. I'm pretty sure he is right; life on our planet was a lot different 70 years ago. There weren't many cars, no internet or cell phones and our human lives were pretty much set - you would often follow your parents' footsteps, get married and have children.

The same pretty much went for dogs. They lived their lives as they knew how to. There wasn't much "excitement" in their lives; no regular beach visits, no fancy dog courses or car rides to the other side of the city or even country. If a dog had an issue with another dog the owners would just not bring those dogs together. We would now feel that would be "avoiding the issue". Which it basically is, but who cared? There weren't as many people or dogs as in our current (city) lives so lots of opportunity to just let the dogs be. Accepting that these dogs don't like each other and work around it. Were these dogs unhappy? At times I think yes, because people also spent less time trying to understand their dog. On the other hand I think they had a lot more freedom to be their own individual, and with that, a lot less EXPECTATIONS to handle.

What makes me say so? I think we, in our current society, find it very difficult to accept things as they are. We are so used to portraying and seeing the "perfect pictures" that we think our lives, and our dogs lives, should match this perception. I was totally guilty too - wanting my dog to be perfect and making a fuss over everything he wasn't great at. Turid Rugaas, my mentor who educated me to be the dog behaviorist I am today, was also the one who confronted me with my high expectations. She said, and I quote:

"In order to help your dog, you have to let go of your own ambitions"

However hard it was, I did eventually learn to have lower expectations. It led me to critically look at everything I wanted from my dogs vs what would feel natural to them. As it turned out there can be quite some contradictions between the two. I have set out some major ones in the image of this post.

I believe we want a lot more from our dogs now compared to 70 years ago, and I think those increased expectations (and of course the changing demographics) lead to a lot of problems we face with our dogs today. Why write this blog? Because I want to inspire you all to think about this. What are the things you want from your dog? Is your request compatible with his natural behavior? If it isn't, can you let go of that expectation? Or tweak it so there is a win win situation?

Online article: https://www.knowyourdog.co.nz/single-post/2019/07/27/Increasing-expectations

Saturday, July 27, 2019

Titer Tests: Protect Your Dog From Over-Vaccination

Dog vaccinations can often be just as harmful as the disease they’re meant to protect against.

Vaccination can cause a wide range of health problems that range from minor fever to anaphylactic shock and cancer. So it’s vital that we vaccinate our pets only when necessary.

Here are some of the common reactions you might see in your dog, either days or months after vaccination …


Friday, July 26, 2019

And then there was ONE!


And then there was ONE! Baby "Addie/Pink Girl" (Moonlight Heart On Fire-TBD) went home with Heike and Neil, Jasmine and Aunt Zali (Zene's sister!) and will be known as "Addie aka Addison". She is flying first class ✈️ to Athens, GA -- as carry-on of course! While I am sad to see her go, Heike and Neil have been friends for a nearly decade and it's hard to deny the perfect puppy a perfect home. I would love to see her in the show ring one day, but knowing she will be adored and loved forever made the decision an easy one. Hoping for a Moonlight Meet-up in the Peach State πŸ‘! We will miss you!
P.S. Family Photo Coming Soon!

Monday, July 22, 2019

Dremel Nail Session with Zene



Here's a video Dremel nail session with Zene (GCH Moonlight's Rock'n Ow't RN JH CGC) that I took a few years back. She is grandma to the Tanner x Cordie Puppies. 

Nail close up w/ info:

Saturday, July 20, 2019

Addie & Aya

Enjoying these two cuties!
Addie/Pink & Aya/Lime

Daddy Tanner




We had a quick visit with Tanner last weekend, just getting around to posting these photos of handsome daddy dog.


Thursday, July 18, 2019

The Naughty Dogge on "Fear"


Food is such an inappropriate life line to hand out to a scared dog. 

If ever I fear that I am drowning, a twinkie is not my solution. Safety is. 

We must offer the same to our fearful and scared dogs. Work on your relationship and prove that you are their body guard. Be proud of their small bits of courage, and watch their chest puff out when you tell them. 

If you do this, these fearful little dogs will follow you into fire...

Monique Anstee • Author of As a Dog Thinketh and The Naughty Dogge http://www.naughtydogge.com

Wednesday, July 17, 2019

Pup-sicles perfect for puppies!





Hooking up the pups on these "dog days of summer"! Greek yogurt, peanut butter and banana pup-sicles. 

Ingredients: 

32 oz. Tub of plain Greek yogurt
1/2 cup natural (unsweetened/no artificial sweeteners) peanut butter
One banana

Blend until smooth. Pour in ice cube trays (I put a tiny dollop of peanut butter on the bottom), insert medium sized dog biscuits and freeze. Makes about three dozen treats. Pup approved!

Fear, stress, and puppy brain development: what to know

The dog brain is very different from that of wild dogs, so that in some ways puppies are born ready to fit into the human world. But the puppy brain still has a lot of developing to do after birth, and understanding that process is important to raising confident, well-adjusted dogs.

It’s now generally believed that dogs essentially domesticated themselves when human civilization developed to the point that it could be a source of food. “Humans created a new environmental niche,” says Jessica Hekman, DVM, Ph.D. “There was an opportunity for this animal to start living closer to humans and taking advantage of our garbage dumps and extra food.” It’s easier to make use of this opportunity, though, if you don’t run and hide whenever people come near. “It became adaptive for them to be less afraid,” she says.

Less fearful animals got more food and left more offspring, who were also less fearful. The result was a domesticated animal with fundamental differences in brain and body. Hekman’s research looks at the functioning of the parts of the brain that control cortisol levels, which are one measure of stress. She says studies comparing stress reactions in domesticated animals and their wild counterparts suggest that cortisol levels don’t increase as much in domesticated animals and decrease more quickly from peak levels. At a physical level, the stress system actually functions differently so that dogs are predisposed to be more tolerant of stressors like human activity.

Survival factors

Still, to survive, any animal needs to know what and what not to fear. When puppies first begin exploring their environment when they are about three weeks old, their brains start laying down important associations that essentially teach them that home is a good place to be. “Their brain makes the assumption that this space right around me is a safe space and this is what’s going to be normal for me in my environment,” Hekman says. This assumption is so strong that puppies actually don’t show a fear response at that age. “You can show them something totally new that they’ve never seen before and they don’t care. They’re not afraid at all.”

One of Hekman’s colleagues, Kathryn Lord, researches early development of dogs and wolves. The timing of this process seems to be another thing that has changed in the course of domestication. Puppies already have their eyes and ears open when they begin to explore, in contrast to wolves, who begin leaving the den when they’re still deaf and blind. Lord’s work suggests that this is one reason dogs end up less wary than wolves: their brains are making a “safe and normal” association to a wider range of experiences -sights and sounds instead of just smells-during that crucial period.

Timeline

However, the period is still limited. Sometime between 5 and 8 weeks in dogs, the fear response kicks in. For the puppy, that means new things become scary; that’s an important survival response for a youngster increasingly able to wander independently. For the prospective puppy owner, that means a couple of things: first, make sure the breeder is working with the puppy before you take him home.

“The period when puppies are with the breeder is the most important time for socialization,” says Hekman. “You get enormous bang for your buck there.” This period is when it’s easiest to get puppies to be accepting of all the crazy sights, sounds, feelings, and activities of the human world. At this point, all that needs to happen is for a puppy to be exposed to those things.

Second, it’s crucial to understand is that once the fear response in the brain comes online, socialization can no longer be mere exposure; it needs to be a more thoughtful and active process. Although the puppy brain is more malleable than it will be at maturity, it’s no longer recording everything it experiences as safe and normal.

Make experiences positive

“Socialization isn’t just ‘expose my dog to things and hope he gets used to them,’” says Erica Feuerbacher, Ph.D., assistant professor at Virginia Tech College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. “You need to make sure they have good experiences.”

At this age you can no longer assume that a puppy will get used to, say, noisy trucks, just by being exposed to them enough times. You need to actively put positive associations in place; for instance, noisy trucks driving by means that a handful of treats appears.

Intensive socialization like this is most important and effective up to about four months of age, but that’s not the end of it. Brain development is never really over: everything learned changes the brain, and dogs can learn new things for their whole lives, for good or ill. Good behaviors and social skills must be maintained.

“Dogs still need to be trained and reinforced for doing what owners want them to do,” Dr. Feuerbacher says. “It’s an ongoing process.”

While even well-socialized dogs can sometimes learn new fears later in life, those fears are easier to deal with if dogs have a solid foundation of positive associations built up in puppyhood. “It kind of inoculates them if they have lots of positive early experiences,” says Dr. Feuerbacher. “You get a dog that bounces back faster if he does have a bad experience later on.”

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Monday, July 15, 2019

And then there were TWO!


And then there were TWO! Baby "Alfred/Black Boy" (Moonlight I See Fire) went home with Greg and Bryan and will be known as "Gabriel". While there's no replacing their first beloved Vizsla (Gideon - who they lost far too soon at age 7) they are looking forward to a new start with "Gabriel". He will be living the good life in San Diego with a big yard, close proximity to Fiesta Island (dog beach), going on runs and hikes (when old enough) and lots and lots of love. We're excited to see him on birds one day! 
 Bye Bye Gabriel! We will miss you! 😘

5️⃣ things to successful dog ownership . . .

Five things that we want pet owners to know about successful dog ownership:
  • Crate train. Even if you leave your dog out when mature, crate train. Most issues with destruction, eating things dogs shouldn't, and many other issues are solved by crate training. And consider transporting your dog safely, stay overs at a boarding facility or the vet's, or needing to leave them in a room with a raw steak on the counter. Crates are the answer for that too!
  • Socialization isn't about meeting other dogs and people. Really. It isn't. It's about exposing your dog to the daily world and teaching them to focus on you. Would you believe me if I told you my dogs have never been to puppy play groups, they never ever say hi to other dogs on walks, and they certainly don't say hi to people either unless permission is asked and given? That's actually normal! Let your dog have one or two friends and that's seriously good enough.
  • Dog parks- we don't use them, but if you must, use extreme caution. Seriously. Go ask a long time breeder, sport handler, or working handler what they think of dog parks. If you absolutely can't imagine life without them, take precautions!
  • Keep your dogs away from other dogs out and about. We don't care if they are friendly, and we don't care if they won't hurt anything. You and your dog don't have the right to interact with others, and you never know when a dog is sick, injured, training, working, or reactive. Use the leash, and don't come within 30 feet without asking first.
  • All dog owners should learn the basics of body language. In my opinion, this is far more important than teaching a dog to sit. You need to know how your dog feels about things and you need to be able to read a situation.
  • Bonus: Don't let your dog stare at other dogs. Bad plan. Even with the little ones. People always wonder why my dogs hackle at the little ones yapping and pulling at the end of the leash- those little ones are being confrontational. Help other dog owners by making sure your own dog is acting appropriately and focused on YOU.

Source: Manitoba Dog Training and Ethical Breeding Education

And then there were THREE!

Siena, Nicole & "Ainsley"

And then there were THREE! Baby "Ainsley/Yellow-Purple Girl" (Moonlight Fire On The Mountain) went home with Nicole, Siena and Luca and her call name is TBD. Ainsley is their first Vizsla and they could not be more excited to bring this gorgeous girl into their home. Ainsley will be living the good life in Phoenix with a huge backyard and owners who love hiking, trail running, and taking camping trips (all dog friendly)! We may see her in the show ring one day, but in the meantime her family is in love with her! Can’t wait for the next Moonlight Meet-up! 
 Bye Bye Ainsley! We will miss you! 😘

Friday, July 12, 2019

Available Puppy!

Aya 7 1/2 weeks old

Beautiful Aya 8 1/2 weeks old

Aya and her eye contact 

Aya with Aunt Emery her BFF

Due to now fault of her own, gorgeous Aya/Lime Girl is available to the right home!

Please email some info about your lifestyle/how a puppy will fit in; and "why" a Vizsla to karen@moonlightvizslas.com to be considered. 

Wednesday, July 10, 2019

And then there were FOUR!

Cordie, Kim, Axel & Bella


And then there were FOUR! Baby "Axel/Blue Boy" (Moonlight Hearts Afire) went home with Kim and Bella and will be keeping his name. Their family had an empty space after losing "Dory" the Weim after a wonderful 14 1/2 years. They're ready for the excitement of raising a new Vizsla puppy, and I could not be happier where this special boy has ended up! Axel will be living the good life in Orange County surrounded by horses, open space and lots of love. We'll see him in the show ring one day, as well as on birds. In the meantime he's going to enjoy being a great little brother to Bella. Can’t wait for the next Moonlight Meet-up!
 Bye Bye Axel! We will miss you! 😘

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Recommended chewies! πŸ—πŸ¦΄πŸ–

The A Team will go home with a bag of goodies, here are some of them:

Cow Ear Dog Treats
https://www.chewy.com/bones-chews-cow-ear-chews-dog-treats/dp/137085

Curly Bully Stick (cut in half)
https://www.chewy.com/bones-chews-curly-bully-stick-7-10/dp/130525

Himalayan Cheese Chews
https://www.chewy.com/bones-chews-himalayan-cheese-large/dp/137096

Trachea 6"
https://www.chewy.com/bones-chews-beef-trachea-6-dog-treat/dp/163876

WHIMZEES Dental Stix (Medium)
https://www.chewy.com/whimzees-stix-dental-dog-treats/dp/142411

Organic Chicken Jerky
https://www.chewy.com/full-moon-organic-chicken-jerky-dog/dp/176570

50 Pack of 4" Bully Sticks
https://www.bestbullysticks.com/4-inch-bully-sticks

Lamb Ears
https://www.bestbullysticks.com/lamb-ear-dog-treats

Beef Tripe Twist
https://www.bestbullysticks.com/best-bullys-beef-casing-twist-5-inches

West Paw Toppl Treat Toy (Small)
https://www.westpaw.com/dog-toys/puzzle/toppl-treat-toy



Interested in Hunting, please don't inadvertently make your dog gun-shy!

MAKING YOUR HUNTING DOG GUNSHY – ONE OF THE MOST COMMON HUMAN-MADE MISTAKES

Written by by Mel Reveles on June 28, 2013 

Making your hunting dog gun-shy – One of the most common human-made mistakes . . .!

I almost didn’t write about this topic because there is already a ton of information out there.  With so many warnings to be careful with this part of bird dog training and a lot of very good methods to choose from I wonder how in the world a person make their bird dog gunshy in this day and age?
I have no answer other than just plain stupidity and ego.  Though, I will take a moment to reinforce the DO NOT messages about socializing your hunting dog to the shotgun:

NEVER take your dog to the shooting range. EVER.  And if you do, only take the dog who has been PROPERLY ACCLIMATED to the shotgun and has A LOT of REAL hunting experience.  This would be the dog who hears a shot and immediately scans the horizon for the falling bird.
NEVER take your dog out and just start shooting very close or, heaven forbid, right over him.  This includes that annual pheasant/quail hunting trip you need to go on and need to bring your dog along.  Nope.  Resist the temptation.  Only bring your hunting buddy along once he has been PROPERLY ACCLIMATED to the shotgun…and then PROPERLY ACCLIMATED to SEVERAL shotguns in the field.  Big difference having one gun shot over him versus 3 or 4.

NEVER rush this part of your training. EVER.  It’s much better (and less expensive) to be extra-cautious, to really take time for this training than having to fix the problems later.  Trust me on this one.  Been there.  Done that.  Thankfully, the dog we made gunshy had an insane level of bird desire and we were able to repair the damage we had caused.  It took a year to fix just his sensitivity to the shotgun and when we thought we were back on track a series of other problems (related to his gunshyness) arose we then needed to fix.

At the time of this writing my newest addition, Boulder’s N Fusion’s Smarti Pants of Southwind is just about to turn 8 months old.  From the time I brought her home, I noticed she was much more aware of sounds and noise than the rest of our Vizslas.  She didn’t show fear–run in the other direction when she heard something that was unfamiliar–but she would usually stop whatever she was doing to pay close attention.  I couldn’t determine a pattern of specific type of sounds that would catch her interest.  It seems she just has a heightened awareness of all sounds.  I would shake out a trash bag to get it unfolded and there she’d suddenly be, bouncing 4 feet off the ground.  Her tail wouldn’t be down, her body language didn’t seem stressed but just that she first noticed the sound and then came over to check it out put me on alert.  Banging pans in the kitchen, the alarm clock going off, ambulances and police cars with their sirens going–she’d react.  Again, not fearfully but just that she was reacting more than I was comfortable with made me take very careful note of how this could impact her introduction to the shotgun.  I planned to follow the same process I learned from my field mentor Jon Hann of Perfection Kennels but I decided to first enlist his advice to make sure I approached this part of Smarti Pants’ training with even more awareness.

Thankfully, the expert himself took the controls and made the decisions about when Smarti Pants was ready to have the sounds of the shotgun moved closer to her and when she was ready to have her first bird shot over her.  Earlier this month, I participated in a 4 day clinic with several of my puppy homes.  Top on my agenda for Smarti Pants was having her properly acclimated to the shotgun.  I trust Jon.  I know he won’t make a mistake with my bird dogs (and if he does, he knows how to fix it).  He called the shots (pun intended) and within a few days Smarti Pants was reacting to the shotgun EXACTLY as I had hoped she would.  At the shot she would spring almost straight up to see over the tall ground cover, looking for the falling bird.  As soon as she’d catch a glimpse and her feet were back on the ground she’d tear out at top speed to get to the downed bird.  She would hunt for the dead bird, pick it up and, most of the time, retrieve it.  Every bird dog is different–with different strengths.  Over the course of the 4 day clinic I also learned Smarti Pants is much more interested in hunting than she is retrieving.  :-)  But, that’s an aside–a post for another day perhaps.  She did an acceptable job retrieving.  I’m not worried about teaching her to love retrieving as well as hunting for birds.  Been there, done that too!

I’m thrilled Smarti Pants is properly socialized to the shotgun now and I can start planning the hunts I’ll take her on this upcoming season.  This will be a season of learning for her!

Though I already said it above, I’ll say it again because it seems this is where a lot of people just can’t help themselves.  Chill out.  Relax.  Let your pup be a pup and quit getting so worked up about needing to shoot over him.  Take your time with this very important piece of his training and pay close attention to his reactions.  Have a plan, know what you’re doing before you start and if, along the way it seems the training isn’t going well, STOP.  Seek out the help of a trusted trainer and work with him to get this piece in place correctly.

When you've properly socialized your pup to the shotgun, this is the response you should see!




Source: https://fusionvizslas.wordpress.com/2013/06/28/making-your-hunting-dog-gunshy-one-of-the-most-common-human-made-mistakes/

Monday, July 8, 2019

Why Not Alpha? The great misconception regarding dog-human relationships . . .


The “alpha” or “top” dog is a concept that has been incorrectly applied to the human-dog relationship. The term “alpha” came from the idea that wolves have an alpha wolf or so-called “head honcho” that calls the shots for the rest of the pack. The true meaning was to be designated to a breeding pair of wolves, who maintained control over life-sustaining resources and reproductive rights in regards to a specific, related pack of wolves. This idea was then transposed to inter-dog relationships and, further, to human-dog relationships. Recent studies of packs of unrelated dogs show that they do not form stable linear hierarchies as was originally suspected. Free-roaming dogs do not hunt or rear young cooperatively, and therefore do not even fit the definition of a true pack. There is not this struggle to get to the top of the hierarchy, despite the popularity of this concept. A better explanation is that dogs are a social species and do, indeed, live in groups when given the opportunity. They will defend their familiar territory against intruders (unless, of course, there is room for an additional member for breeding purposes), and major fights between social group members are infrequent. Sources of contention between familiar dogs include valuable resources, such as mates, food, and key shelter or resting areas. It is evolutionarily normal for dogs to defend such resources, and some are more effective than others at protecting them. When resources are plentiful, the need for competition or fighting is low. When resources are scarce, and survival is at stake, aggression levels may rise. Intelligent dogs will learn what level of aggression is necessary to protect valuable resources without putting themselves at risk of injury. Dogs learn from experience when an aggressive act is effective and tend only to use it when resources are scarce. Some dogs have a genetic predisposition to resource-guard more than others. In a free-roaming environment, these dogs won’t last long, as they are likely to be injured more severely and waste precious energy on fighting. 


In a home environment, resources are typically abundant, and most dogs take no issue with owners removing food items or disturbing them when in a valued resting place. There are some dogs, though, who have a proclivity to overprotect such resources and may use aggression towards people as a means of maintaining possession of what they perceive to be valuable. Obviously, dogs who are malnourished or have a history of starvation are likely to defend the food available to them. If they learn that aggression is an effective means of holding on to such items, they are likely to use that behavior again, and the behavior tends to get worse with each incident. Some dogs may also perceive seemingly benign interactions with people — such as bending over, reaching for, petting, and staring — as threatening and, therefore, use aggression to defend themselves. This is likely due to a genetic predisposition for anxiety or a lack of appropriate early socialization to human body language. Remember that we are asking them to live in our world, and we have to teach them early on what to expect and what is safe.


There is inherent miscommunication between human and dog body language: humans tend to show friendliness with forward-facing, direct gestures, while dogs tend to approach each other from the side and avoid direct frontal body or eye contact. Most dogs learn at a young age to habituate to such direct, frontal body language from people, but others do not. Here lies the major issue. Dogs that feel threatened — for example, by someone taking their valued resources away or approaching them with what they feel are threatening gestures — are likely to defend themselves. We humans then assume this defense is some sort of insubordination or an attempt to be alpha. In reality, these dogs tend to be quite insecure and are often fearful in many situations. A DESIRE TO BE ALPHA HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT! 


If we can teach our canine companions when they are young to trust human body language and interactions as safe and predictable, the chances of their feeling threatened are minimized, and their motivation to be aggressive is greatly reduced. You can see, then, why forceful or even covert means of dominating dogs can lead to a worsening of behavior, an increase in aggression, or in some cases, complete emotional shutdown. Dogs are not trying to lead; they are not trying to dominate or be the alpha to their lower-ranking human companions. They don’t see people as other dogs, but rather social companions of a different species. We don’t secrete the same pheromones, we don’t mate with them, we don’t hunt with them, so why on earth would we assume they want to outrank us? If we are not consistent or predictable with our interactions and do not teach our dogs to trust that what we ask of them is in their best interest, they are not likely to comply with our requests. And in some cases, they may be prompted to use aggression, if they perceive we are a threat to their safety or the resources they view as essential to their survival.


Meghan E. Herron, DVM, DACVB, Clinical Associate Professor — Behavioral Medicine, School of Veterinary Medicine, The Ohio State University






Episode 1 of "Bringing Up Baby Theo" Introduction and Setup



Excellent informative video on preparing for a puppy -- many of these ideas are in my MV Puppy Supplies handout PDF.

If you are on Facebook, please take a look:






Reminders from Jane Messineo Lindquist from Puppy Culture

This is a global "Manding" post - we get more questions about manding than any other PC protocol, and it's also the most misunderstood protocol because it's so often confused with "sitting politely for petting" which is a completely different concept. So here are the links with all the information you need on manding:

http://bit.ly/IAABCMANDING - my article in the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants on manding which describes the history of the concept, its basic application, and benefits.

http://bit.ly/MANDINGFAILURE - my article on what manding is and is not and why puppies who are taught to mand will (and should) still jump up on people sometimes

http://bit.ly/MANDINGDISCRIMSTIM - my article on how and when to honor the mand, and how and when to let the puppy know that his opportunity for petition is closed at this time ;).

Original post: https://bit.ly/2ZpNcWE

Vaccination Protocol for Dogs

2016 DODDS VACCINATION PROTOCOL FOR DOGS - Moonlight's Recommendation: 

The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice.
9 – 10 weeks of age - Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV  e.g. Merck Nobivac (Intervet Progard) Puppy DPV
14 – 15 weeks of age - Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
18 weeks of age - Parvovirus only, MLV Note: New research states that last puppy parvovirus vaccine should be at 18 weeks old.
20 weeks or older, if allowable by law - Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines Mercury-free (thimerosol-free, TF). [Karen] I personally wait until pups are 12 months old.
1 year oldDistemper + Parvovirus, MLV. - This is an optional booster or titer. If the client intends not to booster after this optional booster or intends to retest titers in another three years, this optional booster at puberty is wise.
1 year old - Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines 3-year product if allowable by law; mercury-free (TF)
Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. Visit The Rabies Challenge Fund for more information.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
Hemopet / NutriScan
11561 Salinaz Avenue
Garden Grove, CA 92843

8 Weeks already!


The pups had a fabulous weekend in Simi Valley running around, meeting new friends, seeing new places and meeting their grandma Zene and Uncle Sal. Lots of videos were posted on Instagram. Some favorite photos here:

Axel

Addie

Ainsley

Axel

Alfred 

Alfred

Aya

Ainsley and Aya

Addie

Axel
Addie

Ainsley


We love coconut oil for dogs πŸ₯₯


Link to entire article: https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/top-7-reasons-to-use-coconut-oil-for-dogs/

Tuesday, July 2, 2019

AVOID STAGE 3




AVOID STAGE 3
People are far less stressed, and more successful if they do preparatory work BEFORE getting a pup.
So, we created an online class that provides the key information required to successfully home a new puppy. The class has it’s own specialized materials and provides the opportunity for Q&A. CLICK HERE ⬇️https://www.crowdcast.io/ultimatepuppy 
or here: https://www.ultimatepuppy.com

Monday, July 1, 2019

Like clockwork -- 7 weeks old and mischievous!




Post escape -- nap time! 

Today's panic attack 😟 brought to you by Nest cam. While on a work call to China, I flipped to the puppy pen cam and realized there were THREE escapees! Luckily, I only work 6 minutes away...pretty sure I broke a land speed record 😲

All is well with the pups who turn 7 weeks old today!

REMINDER - Puppy pen (baby gates, etc.) are for litters, not for containment once a pup of 8+ weeks goes home. The best strategy is supervision (two eyes on the puppy) or crate training for their safety. 





Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Calmness is a learned behavior πŸ˜‡


This video is a tutorial on how to teach your puppy or dog to be calm.

Some dogs need help to learn how to relax. Calmness does not come naturally to some breeds .By reinforcing your dog for being calm, your dog will start to choose calmer behaviors in the future and actually enjoy being calm.

Tips for teaching a Default Settle:
  • Don't drop treats if the dog looks up at your hand as you move to give the dog the treat, instead try again later.
  • Don't cue the dog "down". It works better if the dog figures it out on his own and CHOOSES to lay down.
  • Use high value treats like real meat or cheese for such a wonderful behavior.